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Showing posts with label Tips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tips. Show all posts

Wednesday, June 20, 2007

Tips for RV Drivers

Experienced RV drivers share the tips they wish someone had given them.

Parking
"If you try backing up for the first time at a campground, you might hit something and make a spectacle of yourself. Practice parking before going anywhere. If you never master it, ask for assistance. It's the nature of RV enthusiasts to help each other." --Bob Livingston, vice president and group publisher, MotorHome magazine

Directions
"Get meticulous directions. Let people know you're driving a 36-foot motor home and need the straightest, easiest route. Making a U-turn in an RV is a nightmare. You stop traffic. It's a major deal." --Mike Marriner, cofounder, PBS series "Roadtrip Nation"

Pets
"Taking your pet is one of the great joys of RVing. You don't have to pay for a kennel or leave your pet in a hotel room. You're bringing your home on the road, so do the same for your pet. Bring his bed and dishes. And take a long leash. It'll allow your pet to engage with people and other pets." --Jim Rogers, CEO and chairman, Kampgrounds of America

Packing
"Most rental companies offer packages with sheets, towels, dishes, and pots and pans. The packages don't cost much extra, and they eliminate the hassle of having to pack those items." --Harry Basch, coauthor, "RV Vacations for Dummies" and Frommer's "Exploring America by RV"

Fuel
"Most motor home generators automatically turn off just before the fuel tank is completely empty. There's still some gas left to drive on, but you should fill the tank up right away." --Richard Coon, president, Recreation Vehicle Industry Association

Showering
"To conserve water, shut it off while you lather in the shower, before turning it back on to rinse. You still get a decent shower." --Chuck Woodbury, editor, RVTravel.com

Driving
"It's an especially bad idea to exceed speed limits in an RV because you need extra distance to stop. When merging onto highways, try to find long entry ramps so you have space to accelerate. Learn to use your side-view mirrors, too. Some RVs don't have rear mirrors." --Jan Harris, president, RVing Women

Entry step
"Typical RVs have a pullout entry step so it's easy to get in and out. Make sure to stow the step before you drive. Someone almost always leaves it out, and the driver can't see it from his seat. When the step hits a curb--or someone's car--it can cause substantial damage." --Randall Smalley, CEO and chairman, Cruise America RV rentals

Dumping
"The sewer waste, in the black tank, and the water waste, in the gray tank, are both located beneath the RV. A panel in the RV's galley displays the tank levels. Wait until the tanks are at least three-quarters full before you attempt to empty them; otherwise they won't drain properly. Dump the contents of the black tank first so the soapy water from the gray tank can clean out the hose." --Mark Polk, owner, RVEducation101.com

Hills
"If a hill becomes too steep, you won't be able to make it to the top, no matter how hard you push on the gas pedal. Buy a mountain guide, available at truck stops, to identify troublesome hills. Approach any grade over 10 percent with caution." --Mark Emeth, consumer affairs director, Escapees RV Club



http://www.cnn.com/2007/TRAVEL/ADVISOR/06/20/rv.driving/

Tuesday, May 1, 2007

RV Weight & Fuel

Weight & Fuel
Pay close attention to what the scales say.

Weight Matters

Pulling a trailer or vehicle behind a pickup, SUV or motorhome that exceeds the vehicle's towing and gross combination weight ratings (gcwr) is a formula for trouble. Likewise, overloading a tow vehicle, trailer or motorhome with passengers and/or cargo beyond its maximum carrying capacity (gross vehicle weight rating, or gvwr) may also contribute to many potentially negative consequences.

Some of the more-serious results include insufficient power in a tow vehicle or motorhome, handling difficulties and poor fuel mileage. Too much weight can also contribute to increased wear and premature failure of engine and transmission components, brake linings, U-joints, axle bearings and a host of other critical parts. To avoid such problems before they can develop, it's best to know how to determine all towing and carrying limits of any tow vehicle, trailer or motorhome before spending a lot of money.

Let's take tow ratings, for instance. If your sights are set on buying a trailer, the main question to ask is: Will your current tow vehicle handle the weight of the towable, including its passengers, plus any cargo and fluids it may carry? Buying a tow vehicle poses a similar question: Is it rated to handle the weight of your existing trailer? And if you buy a motorhome, Is it rated to tow a dinghy vehicle?

A good place to find tow ratings is by reading the owner's manual of the intended tow vehicle or motorhome. However, the most accurate estimation of a vehicle's towing ability is to weigh the vehicle with all fluids (water, fuel, etc.), LP-gas and approximate cargo aboard. Add to this about 154 pounds per passenger. Finally, subtract this amount from the vehicle's gcwr and the remaining weight is the amount it can reasonably tow.

Trailer and motorhome weight-related capacities, such as gvwr, cargo carrying capacity (ccc) and the unloaded vehicle weight (uvw) may be found on a manufacturer's plate or printed label in a conspicuous location on the unit itself. However, don't make the mistake of assuming empty or dry weight is the amount your vehicle will weigh when loaded; this can be a far cry from reality.

The ccc of a trailer, truck camper or motorhome is very important, and indicates the weight that can be safely added without exceeding a vehicle's gvwr. This figure can be determined by subtracting the wet weight of the vehicle (which includes full freshwater, LP-gas and fuel tanks) from the vehicle's gvwr. For good measure, subtract the estimated weight of all intended passengers as well.

If you are not sure of the ccc on a vehicle, ask the dealer or seller for a certified weight slip. Then add in the estimated weight of water (8.3 pounds per gallon), LP-gas (4.2 pounds per gallon) and gasoline (5.6 pounds per gallon) or diesel fuel (6.8 pounds per gallon). Subtract the maximum weight of all fluids, including the water in the hot-water tank (usually 6 or 10 gallons), plus estimated weights of all passengers calculated at 154 pounds each, from the vehicle's gvwr and you've got your ccc. If there is little or no ccc after doing the above calculations, it's best to shop for a different vehicle.

RV Financing Guide

RV Financing Guide


Financing an RV is a simple process, and there are models to fit anyone's budget, from folding camping trailers that retail for an average cost of $6,824 to conventional Class-A motorhomes with an average retail price of more than $140,000.


Before Purchasing an RV
The majority of prospective buyers have to rely on a lending institution to finance an RV purchase, which may be one of their largest investments. Most lending institutions will finance RVs up to 20 years (depending on the amount of the loan), which is instrumental in keeping the monthly payments affordable.

By considering every possible finance source, from paying cash to taking out a loan, you can determine what is best for you and your budget. By knowing how to compare loan terms, you can greatly reduce the cost of borrowing money. If you consider yourself a cash buyer, shopping for financing may not seem to be a concern. But you still pay extra costs when you pay cash - that is, the loss of earning power of the money you pay. Ask yourself how much money you will not earn from your savings account, real estate, stocks or bonds because you liquidated the asset to buy an RV. Also keep in mind that any income derived from liquidating an asset may incur a capital-gains tax. Or, if your money is in a bank certificate of deposit (CD) that has not matured, you will incur a penalty for early withdrawal. These are all the costs of paying cash.



While Buying an RV
Many dealers use a number of banks or finance companies and can orchestrate the necessary steps to set up a sales contract with the best terms available to the borrower. You also can check with your own bank or credit union; credit unions often offer their members the best rates in the industry. However, the term may not be as attractive as the dealer's sources, especially if the dealer does a lot of business with certain lending institutions. If you decide to go with the dealer, the finance manager will send your application to a number of lenders in search of favorable rates and terms.


Credit approval and interest rates are dependent on four primary factors:
1. Credit history
2. Adequate down payment (if you cannot qualify for a zero-down plan)
3. The ability to make payments
4. Proof of income


Most RV loans are simple interest loans with terms as high as 20 years, and many lenders offer tailor-made programs for special borrowers with offers such as "No Money Down" or deferred payment programs. Also, there are no prepayment penalties for paying the unit off early, no fees, and credit life insurance and extended warranties can be financed in the loan contract. The Good Sam Club's vehicle-financing program, www.GoodSamRVFinance.com, has favorable interest rates for both new and used RVs.

It's important to have some idea of your future RV plans before applying for a loan. If the rig you are planning to buy will eventually be traded for a larger or more expensive unit in the near future, try to finance it for a shorter period of time, or provide a larger down payment.



After an RV Purchase
Unfortunately, RVs depreciate (especially during the first few years) and, even after years of making payments, you might end up owing more than your rig is worth if it's financed for 144 months or more. If you choose to finance under a zero-down plan, keep in mind that the depreciation factor may be much more dramatic as it affects the balance on your contract. Also, RVs can be financed in individual or business names. One final benefit is that interest payments on an RV loan may be tax deductible. This benefit applies if the RV is used as security for the loan, and has cooking, sleeping and toilet facilities on board to qualify for the federal income tax second-home deduction, according to IRS code section 280A(f)(1). You cannot take advantage of this deduction if you already own a second home or another RV. You should consult with your tax adviser for more information on this finance benefit if you are interested.


There are several other legal issues that borrowers should be aware of when financing an RV, including the following:

Truth in Lending Act (Reg Regulation Z):
Reg Z requires creditors to provide written disclosures of the cost of credit and terms of repayment before you enter into a credit transaction. Most importantly, it requires creditors to disclose the dollar amount and APR of a transaction. Reg. Z is intended to promote the informed use of credit and to encourage consumers to shop for the best deal.

Equal Credit Opportunity Act ( Regulation B ):
Reg B prohibits creditors from discrimination in all phases of the credit process (based on sex, race, color, marital status, religion, national origin, age, or because the borrower receives public assistance). Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA): The FCRA governs credit reporting and credit infomation. It regulates how consumers can learn what is being reported to credit reporting agencies about them, how errors in credit reports can be corrected, and establishes limitations on who can obtain credit reports on you for legitimate and permissible purposes.

A carefully thought-out RV finance program can ensure many years of Happy RVing!


http://www.rvbg.com/research/index.cfm?a=2

RV Insurance Choices

RV Insurance Choices

Sooner or later, recreational-vehicle owners learn that there's a big difference between the kind of insurance they can obtain from standard automobile-insurance carriers and the insurance provided by specialty RV-insurance companies.

While automobile-insurance carriers can provide RVers with liability and physical damage coverage, standard automobile policies do not provide sufficient coverage to include the cost of a comparable new RV if the vehicle is stolen or destroyed. Standard automobile policies also do not typically cover the broad range of liability exposures that are associated with the living quarters of an RV.

And while specialty RV insurance is the only kind of coverage that includes both liability exposures, many first-time RV owners don't discover the existence of specialty RV insurance unless their dealers tell them about it at the time of purchase or unless they do a lot of research on their own.

Consequently, many specialty RV insurers rely on dealers to get the word out about the importance of having a specialized RV-insurance policy. "We constantly educate dealers about insurance and the benefits of having a specialized policy," says Paul Bender, partner and president of RV America Insurance Marketing, a Westlake Village, California-based agent who represents several specialty RV-insurance carriers. "There are so many things to be had when you compare it to the simple auto policy."

Unlike standard automobile policies, specialty RV coverage can include:

Total-Loss Replacement Coverage: This is the best kind of coverage available to RV owners. It not only provides maximum protection from physical damage or theft, but protects against depreciation of the actual value of the vehicle. This kind of coverage typically pays for a brand-new RV if your vehicle is stolen or destroyed during the first five model years. After five model years, this coverage provides no less than the stated value of the vehicle listed on the policy at the time of purchase. Some policies offer this level of coverage for 10 years after the vehicle is purchased while others provide coverage for however long the consumer owns the vehicle.

Roadside Assistance: This coverage is similar to the well-known service provided by the American Automobile Association (AAA), but it is specifically enhanced for RV owners because it covers not only the cost of towing the RV to the nearest qualified repair facility, but also the cost of towing any additional vehicles either towed by or towing the RV.

Personal-Belongings Coverage: This coverage provides for replacement of personal items carried in the RV -- such as clothing, jewelry and camera equipment -- if these items are stolen, damaged or destroyed by fire or other incidents.

Emergency-Expense Coverage: This coverage reimburses the RVer for living expenses that may result from specific kinds of vehicle emergencies that take place on the road. For example, if you're on vacation and you have an accident, this coverage will cover the cost of renting a car, staying in a hotel and eating in restaurants while your vehicle is being repaired. Emergency-Expense coverage typically provides $750 to $2,000 per incident.

Campsite Liability Coverage: This coverage is like a homeowner's liability policy that provides coverage while you're on the road. It covers claims that may result from trip-and-fall accidents that take place in your RV and immediate campsite as well as any injuries or damage that result from fires, explosions, dog bites or miscellaneous accidents.

Scheduled Medical Benefits Coverage: This coverage provides specific settlement amounts for specific kinds of accidents or injuries to the RVer.


All of these coverage areas can be adjusted to suit the particular needs of each RVer, with full-timers typically opting for higher coverage limits, since they often have more personal belongings with them when they travel, as well as greater travel-related liability exposures, from campsite-related accidents to RV repairs that may temporarily force them to stay in a hotel or rent another vehicle.

RVers also find that specialty RV insurance covers any gaps in protection they may have in their existing homeowner's liability policies.

Specialty RV-insurance prices vary, depending on the carrier, your driving record and the discounts offered by your automobile insurance company. Bender says motorized-RV insurance is frequently less expensive than typical automobile insurance, while coverage for trailers can go either way, depending on your individual insurance profile.

But while there are differing opinions on how much specialty RV insurance costs when compared to standard automobile-insurance policies, RV insurers agree that specialty insurance provides maximum coverage for the recreational-vehicle enthusiast.

Specialty RV-insurance providers also have another advantage: A specialized staff who understand RVs and know how to handle RV claims.

There are a number of companies that provide specialty RV insurance, including GMAC Insurance through the Good Sam Club, Progressive Insurance, American Modern, Foremost Insurance Group, National Interstate and Mendota Insurance. -- Jeff Crider


http://www.rvbg.com/research/index.cfm?a=1

Wednesday, April 18, 2007

Tips : How to buy an RV?

Buying an RV can be as complicated as buying a home. Start with the basics--running water, cooking and bathroom facilities, and a power source--then explore amenities such as entertainment systems, kingsize beds and even hot tubs. Now you're ready to bust out the Willie Nelson and hit the road.


Instructions

STEP 1: Understand that RVs are usually designated by length. The longer the RV, the more opulent and expensive. Height and width measurements do not vary significantly.

STEP 2: Remember that you need to drive the RV. What size vehicle can you handle confidently? Are you comfortable backing up? Will your spouse be comfortable driving it? Do you need a special license in your state?

STEP 3: Decide on which class vehicle is right for you. Class A motorized models are the largest. Class B motorized models are modified and have expanded van conversion: They are smaller, with better mileage, but you may sacrifice some comfort and amenities. Class C motorized RVs are even smaller and have a bed over the cab. The largest towable RVs are travel trailers, up to 35 feet (10.7 m) long. Fold-out camper trailers are smaller. A truck camper, fit to the back of a pickup, is considered a towable RV. If you already own a truck, this type may make the most sense.

STEP 4: Class A motorized models start at about $100,000. Class B range from $42,000 to $68,000. Class C models are about $50,000 to $100,000. Folding camper trailers and truck campers start at about $4,000, while larger travel trailers start at $9,000.

STEP 5: Negotiate the purchase price as you would with a car; in fact, you may have even more room to bargain. There are far more RV manufacturers than car manufacturers; use this competition to your advantage. If you can't find the style and options you want at a price that you think is reasonable, keep looking.

STEP 6: Go to an RV show. These are frequently advertised in newspapers and on TV. Talk to owners, dealers and other shoppers.

STEP 7: Try before you buy. Two of the largest rental operations in the United States are El Monte RV (elmonte.com) and Cruise America (cruiseamerica.com). Prices run from $90 to $200 per day (depending on the model) and peak in the summer.

STEP 8: Ask for deals. Most manufacturers offer rebates and significant kickbacks to dealers, who will pass along some or all if they think it will make a deal. Late summer is the best time to shop, as dealers are looking to get rid of the previous year's stock.


What To Look For

- Appropriate class
- RV shows
- Size
- Options and amenities



Overall Tips & Warnings

- If you're a novice, consider taking driving lessons with your RV to make sure that both you and your fellow drivers are safe.

- Many RV fans suffer from what industry professionals call 2-foot-itis--the urge to constantly get a larger RV. This can be fun if you have the money, but don't overlook the advantages of the RV you own.

- Books on RV travel are available at many bookstores. Go online to GoRVing.com to order a free video about RV basics in exchange for filling out a survey.

- Look into insurance specifically for RVs. Your auto insurance may not cover total loss replacement, emergency living expenses, and campsite liability.

Wednesday, April 4, 2007

10 DisneyWorld Vacationing Tips

Having spent 55 days at a DisneyWorld theme park in the last 6 years, I think I'm beginning to qualify as a DisneyWorld expert. In particular, I'm a very cheap person. I spend 1 month per year in Florida. That can be very expensive. Not for me. Here's 10 tips for reducing your costs while increasing your fun.


Get the 10-day Pass
A 1-day pass to DisneyWorld starts at $67. Two-days is $132. That means your second day cost $65. Three-days is $192. The third day cost $60. Four day is $202. The fourth day cast $10. Yes, you got that right. The fourth day is $10. The fifth is $4. The sixth thru tenth are $2. A 3-day pass is $192 and a 10-day pass $216. In other words, you pay $24 for the last 7 days of a 10-day pass.


Pay $100 per Night
The first time I went to DisneyWorld (as an adult), I paid $200-300 per night to stay in a hotel room. That immediately triggered the thought in my head about just how cheap RVs are. I now pay less than $100 per night at a very high class campground and I stay for about 14 nights. In other words, I'm saving about $2000 per year. I stay at Fort Wilderness, which at $100 per night is the most expensive campground I stay at. You can get even cheaper. Lake Louisa State Park cost $21 per night. And I'm sure there are plenty of other campgrounds in Florida in the same price range. If you don't have an RV, then don't worry, you can rent an RV and they will set it up on site for you.


Think Fastpass
If you like rides, then think Fastpass. Before you enter the theme park, know which fastpass you need to get. Enter the park and get your fastpass. When you get the fastpass, note the time you can get your next fastpass and get that fastpass ASAP. Repeat. When you are waiting for a fastpass interval, then go on some rides where the lineup is smaller. A good fastpass strategy is the difference between 20 rides and 5.


Pack a Lunch
Counter service meals at DisneyWorld is McDonalds, but you don't pay McDonald prices, you pay Disney prices. Pack a few sandwiches and you'll save yourself $5 per day per person.


Skip Universal and SeaWorld
You are going to DisneyWorld and you are paying $200 per person for tickets. It's not out of your way to go to Universal or SeaWorld, but it's another $60 per person. We've gone to SeaWorld from time-to-time, but lately we decided that it's not much different then our local sea park. We haven't been to Universal, but it also doesn't seem much different from our local theme park. Disney is magic. Univeral and SeaWorld are same and a waste of dollar unless you live in Florida.


Skip the Water Parks
Disney has two water parks which are likely two of the best water parks in the world. Nevertheless, they are water parks. My kids have done the water parks and they really like swimming, but they enjoy the average swimming pool about the same as the Disney water parks. Unless you got money to burn, then save yourself the money.


Pass on Options
Disney offers a lot of options on your tickets. I've tried the Park Hopper option, the Water Parks and friends have tried the No Expiry. I don't think any of them give you any benefit or save you any money. The Disney theme parks are big enough that park hopping really isn't necessary. It'll take you 2 hours to switch parks, so any gain is lost in time. If you get the 10-day pass, then park hopping is not really valuable. On the other hand, if you have 2 days to enjoy Disney, then park hopping might be good for you.


Start at the Back
If you arrive in the morning, then understand that most people enjoy their day at Disney by moving either clockwise or counter-clockwise around the park. In other words, the far back of the park is empty for the first hour or two. Start there and you'll enjoy an extra ride or two in the morning.


Later is Better
In part contradiction to the last item, the line-ups get smaller later in the day. By about supper time, the lineups get smaller and smaller. On the other hand, by supper time, the fastpasses are long gone. For rides that don't have fastpasses, your best bet is later in the day. The later, the better.


Magic Hours
If you happen to stay at a Disney resort, then pay attention to magic hours. These are extra hours where only Disney resort goers are allowed on the rides. These hours happen in both the morning and night. You get more hours at night. The lineups during Magic Hours are almost non-existent.

RV Sponsors / Resources

Showing posts with label Tips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tips. Show all posts

Wednesday, June 20, 2007

Tips for RV Drivers

Experienced RV drivers share the tips they wish someone had given them.

Parking
"If you try backing up for the first time at a campground, you might hit something and make a spectacle of yourself. Practice parking before going anywhere. If you never master it, ask for assistance. It's the nature of RV enthusiasts to help each other." --Bob Livingston, vice president and group publisher, MotorHome magazine

Directions
"Get meticulous directions. Let people know you're driving a 36-foot motor home and need the straightest, easiest route. Making a U-turn in an RV is a nightmare. You stop traffic. It's a major deal." --Mike Marriner, cofounder, PBS series "Roadtrip Nation"

Pets
"Taking your pet is one of the great joys of RVing. You don't have to pay for a kennel or leave your pet in a hotel room. You're bringing your home on the road, so do the same for your pet. Bring his bed and dishes. And take a long leash. It'll allow your pet to engage with people and other pets." --Jim Rogers, CEO and chairman, Kampgrounds of America

Packing
"Most rental companies offer packages with sheets, towels, dishes, and pots and pans. The packages don't cost much extra, and they eliminate the hassle of having to pack those items." --Harry Basch, coauthor, "RV Vacations for Dummies" and Frommer's "Exploring America by RV"

Fuel
"Most motor home generators automatically turn off just before the fuel tank is completely empty. There's still some gas left to drive on, but you should fill the tank up right away." --Richard Coon, president, Recreation Vehicle Industry Association

Showering
"To conserve water, shut it off while you lather in the shower, before turning it back on to rinse. You still get a decent shower." --Chuck Woodbury, editor, RVTravel.com

Driving
"It's an especially bad idea to exceed speed limits in an RV because you need extra distance to stop. When merging onto highways, try to find long entry ramps so you have space to accelerate. Learn to use your side-view mirrors, too. Some RVs don't have rear mirrors." --Jan Harris, president, RVing Women

Entry step
"Typical RVs have a pullout entry step so it's easy to get in and out. Make sure to stow the step before you drive. Someone almost always leaves it out, and the driver can't see it from his seat. When the step hits a curb--or someone's car--it can cause substantial damage." --Randall Smalley, CEO and chairman, Cruise America RV rentals

Dumping
"The sewer waste, in the black tank, and the water waste, in the gray tank, are both located beneath the RV. A panel in the RV's galley displays the tank levels. Wait until the tanks are at least three-quarters full before you attempt to empty them; otherwise they won't drain properly. Dump the contents of the black tank first so the soapy water from the gray tank can clean out the hose." --Mark Polk, owner, RVEducation101.com

Hills
"If a hill becomes too steep, you won't be able to make it to the top, no matter how hard you push on the gas pedal. Buy a mountain guide, available at truck stops, to identify troublesome hills. Approach any grade over 10 percent with caution." --Mark Emeth, consumer affairs director, Escapees RV Club



http://www.cnn.com/2007/TRAVEL/ADVISOR/06/20/rv.driving/

Tuesday, May 1, 2007

RV Weight & Fuel

Weight & Fuel
Pay close attention to what the scales say.

Weight Matters

Pulling a trailer or vehicle behind a pickup, SUV or motorhome that exceeds the vehicle's towing and gross combination weight ratings (gcwr) is a formula for trouble. Likewise, overloading a tow vehicle, trailer or motorhome with passengers and/or cargo beyond its maximum carrying capacity (gross vehicle weight rating, or gvwr) may also contribute to many potentially negative consequences.

Some of the more-serious results include insufficient power in a tow vehicle or motorhome, handling difficulties and poor fuel mileage. Too much weight can also contribute to increased wear and premature failure of engine and transmission components, brake linings, U-joints, axle bearings and a host of other critical parts. To avoid such problems before they can develop, it's best to know how to determine all towing and carrying limits of any tow vehicle, trailer or motorhome before spending a lot of money.

Let's take tow ratings, for instance. If your sights are set on buying a trailer, the main question to ask is: Will your current tow vehicle handle the weight of the towable, including its passengers, plus any cargo and fluids it may carry? Buying a tow vehicle poses a similar question: Is it rated to handle the weight of your existing trailer? And if you buy a motorhome, Is it rated to tow a dinghy vehicle?

A good place to find tow ratings is by reading the owner's manual of the intended tow vehicle or motorhome. However, the most accurate estimation of a vehicle's towing ability is to weigh the vehicle with all fluids (water, fuel, etc.), LP-gas and approximate cargo aboard. Add to this about 154 pounds per passenger. Finally, subtract this amount from the vehicle's gcwr and the remaining weight is the amount it can reasonably tow.

Trailer and motorhome weight-related capacities, such as gvwr, cargo carrying capacity (ccc) and the unloaded vehicle weight (uvw) may be found on a manufacturer's plate or printed label in a conspicuous location on the unit itself. However, don't make the mistake of assuming empty or dry weight is the amount your vehicle will weigh when loaded; this can be a far cry from reality.

The ccc of a trailer, truck camper or motorhome is very important, and indicates the weight that can be safely added without exceeding a vehicle's gvwr. This figure can be determined by subtracting the wet weight of the vehicle (which includes full freshwater, LP-gas and fuel tanks) from the vehicle's gvwr. For good measure, subtract the estimated weight of all intended passengers as well.

If you are not sure of the ccc on a vehicle, ask the dealer or seller for a certified weight slip. Then add in the estimated weight of water (8.3 pounds per gallon), LP-gas (4.2 pounds per gallon) and gasoline (5.6 pounds per gallon) or diesel fuel (6.8 pounds per gallon). Subtract the maximum weight of all fluids, including the water in the hot-water tank (usually 6 or 10 gallons), plus estimated weights of all passengers calculated at 154 pounds each, from the vehicle's gvwr and you've got your ccc. If there is little or no ccc after doing the above calculations, it's best to shop for a different vehicle.

RV Financing Guide

RV Financing Guide


Financing an RV is a simple process, and there are models to fit anyone's budget, from folding camping trailers that retail for an average cost of $6,824 to conventional Class-A motorhomes with an average retail price of more than $140,000.


Before Purchasing an RV
The majority of prospective buyers have to rely on a lending institution to finance an RV purchase, which may be one of their largest investments. Most lending institutions will finance RVs up to 20 years (depending on the amount of the loan), which is instrumental in keeping the monthly payments affordable.

By considering every possible finance source, from paying cash to taking out a loan, you can determine what is best for you and your budget. By knowing how to compare loan terms, you can greatly reduce the cost of borrowing money. If you consider yourself a cash buyer, shopping for financing may not seem to be a concern. But you still pay extra costs when you pay cash - that is, the loss of earning power of the money you pay. Ask yourself how much money you will not earn from your savings account, real estate, stocks or bonds because you liquidated the asset to buy an RV. Also keep in mind that any income derived from liquidating an asset may incur a capital-gains tax. Or, if your money is in a bank certificate of deposit (CD) that has not matured, you will incur a penalty for early withdrawal. These are all the costs of paying cash.



While Buying an RV
Many dealers use a number of banks or finance companies and can orchestrate the necessary steps to set up a sales contract with the best terms available to the borrower. You also can check with your own bank or credit union; credit unions often offer their members the best rates in the industry. However, the term may not be as attractive as the dealer's sources, especially if the dealer does a lot of business with certain lending institutions. If you decide to go with the dealer, the finance manager will send your application to a number of lenders in search of favorable rates and terms.


Credit approval and interest rates are dependent on four primary factors:
1. Credit history
2. Adequate down payment (if you cannot qualify for a zero-down plan)
3. The ability to make payments
4. Proof of income


Most RV loans are simple interest loans with terms as high as 20 years, and many lenders offer tailor-made programs for special borrowers with offers such as "No Money Down" or deferred payment programs. Also, there are no prepayment penalties for paying the unit off early, no fees, and credit life insurance and extended warranties can be financed in the loan contract. The Good Sam Club's vehicle-financing program, www.GoodSamRVFinance.com, has favorable interest rates for both new and used RVs.

It's important to have some idea of your future RV plans before applying for a loan. If the rig you are planning to buy will eventually be traded for a larger or more expensive unit in the near future, try to finance it for a shorter period of time, or provide a larger down payment.



After an RV Purchase
Unfortunately, RVs depreciate (especially during the first few years) and, even after years of making payments, you might end up owing more than your rig is worth if it's financed for 144 months or more. If you choose to finance under a zero-down plan, keep in mind that the depreciation factor may be much more dramatic as it affects the balance on your contract. Also, RVs can be financed in individual or business names. One final benefit is that interest payments on an RV loan may be tax deductible. This benefit applies if the RV is used as security for the loan, and has cooking, sleeping and toilet facilities on board to qualify for the federal income tax second-home deduction, according to IRS code section 280A(f)(1). You cannot take advantage of this deduction if you already own a second home or another RV. You should consult with your tax adviser for more information on this finance benefit if you are interested.


There are several other legal issues that borrowers should be aware of when financing an RV, including the following:

Truth in Lending Act (Reg Regulation Z):
Reg Z requires creditors to provide written disclosures of the cost of credit and terms of repayment before you enter into a credit transaction. Most importantly, it requires creditors to disclose the dollar amount and APR of a transaction. Reg. Z is intended to promote the informed use of credit and to encourage consumers to shop for the best deal.

Equal Credit Opportunity Act ( Regulation B ):
Reg B prohibits creditors from discrimination in all phases of the credit process (based on sex, race, color, marital status, religion, national origin, age, or because the borrower receives public assistance). Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA): The FCRA governs credit reporting and credit infomation. It regulates how consumers can learn what is being reported to credit reporting agencies about them, how errors in credit reports can be corrected, and establishes limitations on who can obtain credit reports on you for legitimate and permissible purposes.

A carefully thought-out RV finance program can ensure many years of Happy RVing!


http://www.rvbg.com/research/index.cfm?a=2

RV Insurance Choices

RV Insurance Choices

Sooner or later, recreational-vehicle owners learn that there's a big difference between the kind of insurance they can obtain from standard automobile-insurance carriers and the insurance provided by specialty RV-insurance companies.

While automobile-insurance carriers can provide RVers with liability and physical damage coverage, standard automobile policies do not provide sufficient coverage to include the cost of a comparable new RV if the vehicle is stolen or destroyed. Standard automobile policies also do not typically cover the broad range of liability exposures that are associated with the living quarters of an RV.

And while specialty RV insurance is the only kind of coverage that includes both liability exposures, many first-time RV owners don't discover the existence of specialty RV insurance unless their dealers tell them about it at the time of purchase or unless they do a lot of research on their own.

Consequently, many specialty RV insurers rely on dealers to get the word out about the importance of having a specialized RV-insurance policy. "We constantly educate dealers about insurance and the benefits of having a specialized policy," says Paul Bender, partner and president of RV America Insurance Marketing, a Westlake Village, California-based agent who represents several specialty RV-insurance carriers. "There are so many things to be had when you compare it to the simple auto policy."

Unlike standard automobile policies, specialty RV coverage can include:

Total-Loss Replacement Coverage: This is the best kind of coverage available to RV owners. It not only provides maximum protection from physical damage or theft, but protects against depreciation of the actual value of the vehicle. This kind of coverage typically pays for a brand-new RV if your vehicle is stolen or destroyed during the first five model years. After five model years, this coverage provides no less than the stated value of the vehicle listed on the policy at the time of purchase. Some policies offer this level of coverage for 10 years after the vehicle is purchased while others provide coverage for however long the consumer owns the vehicle.

Roadside Assistance: This coverage is similar to the well-known service provided by the American Automobile Association (AAA), but it is specifically enhanced for RV owners because it covers not only the cost of towing the RV to the nearest qualified repair facility, but also the cost of towing any additional vehicles either towed by or towing the RV.

Personal-Belongings Coverage: This coverage provides for replacement of personal items carried in the RV -- such as clothing, jewelry and camera equipment -- if these items are stolen, damaged or destroyed by fire or other incidents.

Emergency-Expense Coverage: This coverage reimburses the RVer for living expenses that may result from specific kinds of vehicle emergencies that take place on the road. For example, if you're on vacation and you have an accident, this coverage will cover the cost of renting a car, staying in a hotel and eating in restaurants while your vehicle is being repaired. Emergency-Expense coverage typically provides $750 to $2,000 per incident.

Campsite Liability Coverage: This coverage is like a homeowner's liability policy that provides coverage while you're on the road. It covers claims that may result from trip-and-fall accidents that take place in your RV and immediate campsite as well as any injuries or damage that result from fires, explosions, dog bites or miscellaneous accidents.

Scheduled Medical Benefits Coverage: This coverage provides specific settlement amounts for specific kinds of accidents or injuries to the RVer.


All of these coverage areas can be adjusted to suit the particular needs of each RVer, with full-timers typically opting for higher coverage limits, since they often have more personal belongings with them when they travel, as well as greater travel-related liability exposures, from campsite-related accidents to RV repairs that may temporarily force them to stay in a hotel or rent another vehicle.

RVers also find that specialty RV insurance covers any gaps in protection they may have in their existing homeowner's liability policies.

Specialty RV-insurance prices vary, depending on the carrier, your driving record and the discounts offered by your automobile insurance company. Bender says motorized-RV insurance is frequently less expensive than typical automobile insurance, while coverage for trailers can go either way, depending on your individual insurance profile.

But while there are differing opinions on how much specialty RV insurance costs when compared to standard automobile-insurance policies, RV insurers agree that specialty insurance provides maximum coverage for the recreational-vehicle enthusiast.

Specialty RV-insurance providers also have another advantage: A specialized staff who understand RVs and know how to handle RV claims.

There are a number of companies that provide specialty RV insurance, including GMAC Insurance through the Good Sam Club, Progressive Insurance, American Modern, Foremost Insurance Group, National Interstate and Mendota Insurance. -- Jeff Crider


http://www.rvbg.com/research/index.cfm?a=1

Wednesday, April 18, 2007

Tips : How to buy an RV?

Buying an RV can be as complicated as buying a home. Start with the basics--running water, cooking and bathroom facilities, and a power source--then explore amenities such as entertainment systems, kingsize beds and even hot tubs. Now you're ready to bust out the Willie Nelson and hit the road.


Instructions

STEP 1: Understand that RVs are usually designated by length. The longer the RV, the more opulent and expensive. Height and width measurements do not vary significantly.

STEP 2: Remember that you need to drive the RV. What size vehicle can you handle confidently? Are you comfortable backing up? Will your spouse be comfortable driving it? Do you need a special license in your state?

STEP 3: Decide on which class vehicle is right for you. Class A motorized models are the largest. Class B motorized models are modified and have expanded van conversion: They are smaller, with better mileage, but you may sacrifice some comfort and amenities. Class C motorized RVs are even smaller and have a bed over the cab. The largest towable RVs are travel trailers, up to 35 feet (10.7 m) long. Fold-out camper trailers are smaller. A truck camper, fit to the back of a pickup, is considered a towable RV. If you already own a truck, this type may make the most sense.

STEP 4: Class A motorized models start at about $100,000. Class B range from $42,000 to $68,000. Class C models are about $50,000 to $100,000. Folding camper trailers and truck campers start at about $4,000, while larger travel trailers start at $9,000.

STEP 5: Negotiate the purchase price as you would with a car; in fact, you may have even more room to bargain. There are far more RV manufacturers than car manufacturers; use this competition to your advantage. If you can't find the style and options you want at a price that you think is reasonable, keep looking.

STEP 6: Go to an RV show. These are frequently advertised in newspapers and on TV. Talk to owners, dealers and other shoppers.

STEP 7: Try before you buy. Two of the largest rental operations in the United States are El Monte RV (elmonte.com) and Cruise America (cruiseamerica.com). Prices run from $90 to $200 per day (depending on the model) and peak in the summer.

STEP 8: Ask for deals. Most manufacturers offer rebates and significant kickbacks to dealers, who will pass along some or all if they think it will make a deal. Late summer is the best time to shop, as dealers are looking to get rid of the previous year's stock.


What To Look For

- Appropriate class
- RV shows
- Size
- Options and amenities



Overall Tips & Warnings

- If you're a novice, consider taking driving lessons with your RV to make sure that both you and your fellow drivers are safe.

- Many RV fans suffer from what industry professionals call 2-foot-itis--the urge to constantly get a larger RV. This can be fun if you have the money, but don't overlook the advantages of the RV you own.

- Books on RV travel are available at many bookstores. Go online to GoRVing.com to order a free video about RV basics in exchange for filling out a survey.

- Look into insurance specifically for RVs. Your auto insurance may not cover total loss replacement, emergency living expenses, and campsite liability.

Wednesday, April 4, 2007

10 DisneyWorld Vacationing Tips

Having spent 55 days at a DisneyWorld theme park in the last 6 years, I think I'm beginning to qualify as a DisneyWorld expert. In particular, I'm a very cheap person. I spend 1 month per year in Florida. That can be very expensive. Not for me. Here's 10 tips for reducing your costs while increasing your fun.


Get the 10-day Pass
A 1-day pass to DisneyWorld starts at $67. Two-days is $132. That means your second day cost $65. Three-days is $192. The third day cost $60. Four day is $202. The fourth day cast $10. Yes, you got that right. The fourth day is $10. The fifth is $4. The sixth thru tenth are $2. A 3-day pass is $192 and a 10-day pass $216. In other words, you pay $24 for the last 7 days of a 10-day pass.


Pay $100 per Night
The first time I went to DisneyWorld (as an adult), I paid $200-300 per night to stay in a hotel room. That immediately triggered the thought in my head about just how cheap RVs are. I now pay less than $100 per night at a very high class campground and I stay for about 14 nights. In other words, I'm saving about $2000 per year. I stay at Fort Wilderness, which at $100 per night is the most expensive campground I stay at. You can get even cheaper. Lake Louisa State Park cost $21 per night. And I'm sure there are plenty of other campgrounds in Florida in the same price range. If you don't have an RV, then don't worry, you can rent an RV and they will set it up on site for you.


Think Fastpass
If you like rides, then think Fastpass. Before you enter the theme park, know which fastpass you need to get. Enter the park and get your fastpass. When you get the fastpass, note the time you can get your next fastpass and get that fastpass ASAP. Repeat. When you are waiting for a fastpass interval, then go on some rides where the lineup is smaller. A good fastpass strategy is the difference between 20 rides and 5.


Pack a Lunch
Counter service meals at DisneyWorld is McDonalds, but you don't pay McDonald prices, you pay Disney prices. Pack a few sandwiches and you'll save yourself $5 per day per person.


Skip Universal and SeaWorld
You are going to DisneyWorld and you are paying $200 per person for tickets. It's not out of your way to go to Universal or SeaWorld, but it's another $60 per person. We've gone to SeaWorld from time-to-time, but lately we decided that it's not much different then our local sea park. We haven't been to Universal, but it also doesn't seem much different from our local theme park. Disney is magic. Univeral and SeaWorld are same and a waste of dollar unless you live in Florida.


Skip the Water Parks
Disney has two water parks which are likely two of the best water parks in the world. Nevertheless, they are water parks. My kids have done the water parks and they really like swimming, but they enjoy the average swimming pool about the same as the Disney water parks. Unless you got money to burn, then save yourself the money.


Pass on Options
Disney offers a lot of options on your tickets. I've tried the Park Hopper option, the Water Parks and friends have tried the No Expiry. I don't think any of them give you any benefit or save you any money. The Disney theme parks are big enough that park hopping really isn't necessary. It'll take you 2 hours to switch parks, so any gain is lost in time. If you get the 10-day pass, then park hopping is not really valuable. On the other hand, if you have 2 days to enjoy Disney, then park hopping might be good for you.


Start at the Back
If you arrive in the morning, then understand that most people enjoy their day at Disney by moving either clockwise or counter-clockwise around the park. In other words, the far back of the park is empty for the first hour or two. Start there and you'll enjoy an extra ride or two in the morning.


Later is Better
In part contradiction to the last item, the line-ups get smaller later in the day. By about supper time, the lineups get smaller and smaller. On the other hand, by supper time, the fastpasses are long gone. For rides that don't have fastpasses, your best bet is later in the day. The later, the better.


Magic Hours
If you happen to stay at a Disney resort, then pay attention to magic hours. These are extra hours where only Disney resort goers are allowed on the rides. These hours happen in both the morning and night. You get more hours at night. The lineups during Magic Hours are almost non-existent.